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Full Article
Time fly’s when you having fun all intentions to bring a piece to table on a weekly basis flew out the window. All things said and done did an inspection last week what a gem only one major defect that could have been half the cost to repair on the boundary walls.
This is a very good example of your typical mud cracks you get when not treated or painted in time. Looking at the photo the descriptions comes from the effect you see mud forms when a dam dries up.
The best treatment is prevention but we sometimes learn the hard way. Treatment is simple, but costly and labour intensive. Every crack be it wide or a newly formed hairline crack are to be scratched out to form a “V†shaped grove using a baby grinder works well and can be rented for around R 130.00pd. Once the entire wall has been done in this manner sand the entire wall with a P40 grid paper then you pressure wash the wall at no more than 30 bar or 3 KPa, washing out all the groves. If pieces of plaster are blown off the wall this is normal and depending on the grade of deterioration one can lose from 30% up to 60% of the total plastered surface, if this happens plaster the lost areas. Important this wall needs to dry below 18% moisture content, a moisture analyser can be rented as well around R 100.00pd a good idea would be to do this type of repair during the dry season. Apply 2 layers of Plascon bonding liquid (light blue transparent liquid) at least 24 hours between coats. Fill all “V†grooves with a pre mixed product like “Skim Rite†from Duraline Paints it is easy to use leaves a smooth finish after sanded, with all cracks filled and dried give one cote of bonding liquid covering all previous filled cracks. The top of this wall now need to be sealed with a membrane and acrylic roof paint and two coats of fibre paint. The membrane need to go down at least 100mm down the vertical side on both sides of the wall. The following step is very messy; you need to soak the roll of membrane in the acrylic paint working with gloves squeeze out all the air in the submerged roll of membrane. You need to be 2 people, one person applies a thick coat over the top surface and 150 mm down both the vertical sides of the wall, the second person now rolls the soaked membrane onto the painted surface while it is still wet and smoothing the membrane flat with a soft brush or slight pressure from your hand taking care to get all air pockets out but without squeezing all the acrylic paint out. Leave for 48 hours to dry and harden. Now apply the 2 coats of fibre paint one critical factor always use the correct brush and the direction of application (brush strokes) of the 2 coats has to be 90’Deg from one another and allow them to dry if not the brush strokes from the second coat will pull the fibres from the first coat during application and damaging the first coat destroying all of its waterproofing abilities. Only now the waterproofing on the wall is complete and the wall can be painted with its plaster primer and 2 or 3 final coats depending on the coverage and quality of paint being used. Important to remember the membrane need a maintenance coat every second year to keep that seal in tack and the moisture out of the wall.
Author Roald Olivier
ComSpect Inspect
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